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The 3D printer accessories that really make a difference are few, and they rarely come in the box: a filament dryer, digital calipers and a good tool kit solve most of the failures new users run into. This guide ranks accessories by priority, explains what each one does and when it’s worth buying, with no filler.
Quick answer: for FDM printing, start with a tool kit (scraper, flush cutters and nozzle cleaning needles), digital calipers and a filament dryer. If you print PETG, TPU or nylon, the dryer goes from recommended to essential. For resin, start with nitrile gloves, safety glasses and proper ventilation; a wash and cure station comes next.
3D printer accessories at a glance
| Accessory | What it’s for | Essential or optional |
|---|---|---|
| Tool kit (scrapers, cutters, needles) | Removing parts and supports, clearing clogs | Essential (FDM) |
| Digital calipers | Measuring parts, tolerances and filament diameter | Essential |
| Filament dryer | Removing moisture before and during printing | Essential for PETG, TPU, nylon; recommended for PLA |
| Spare PEI sheets | Reliable adhesion, easy part release | Highly recommended |
| Hardened nozzles | Abrasive carbon/glass-fiber filaments | Only for abrasive filaments |
| Enclosure | Stable temperature for ABS, ASA, nylon | Needed for those materials |
| Camera | Watching long prints remotely | Optional |
| Wash and cure station | Cleaning and curing resin parts | Very useful (resin) |
| Gloves and PPE | Safe resin handling | Essential (resin) |
1. Tool kit
The first accessory to buy, because you’ll use it on every print. Many printers ship with a basic scraper and needles, but they’re low quality and easy to lose. A complete kit should include:
- A thin, flexible scraper to lift parts without scratching the bed
- Flush cutters for supports, brims and filament ends
- Cleaning needles matching your nozzle (0.4 mm is standard) for hot clogs
- A brass brush for the nozzle and heater block
- A craft knife and deburring tool for edges and holes
- Hex keys and a nozzle wrench
A cutting mat and fine tweezers round it out; add sandpaper in several grits if you sand or paint.
2. Digital calipers
3D printing works in tenths of a millimeter. Calipers let you measure objects before modeling them, check fits and verify filament diameter (about 1.75 mm). They’re also key for calibrating extruder steps and flow. Look for 0.01 mm resolution, a large display and a zero function; stainless steel models last longer and are more precise than carbon-fiber ones.
3. Filament dryer
The accessory that prevents the most failures and the one beginners buy least. Most filaments absorb moisture from the air; wet filament causes stringing, bubbles, popping at the nozzle and brittle parts. Typical drying settings (always check your filament maker’s guidance):
| Material | Temperature | Approx. time |
|---|---|---|
| PLA | 40–50 °C | 4–6 h |
| PETG | 60–70 °C | 4–6 h |
| ABS / ASA | 65–80 °C | 2–4 h |
| TPU | 50–60 °C | 6–12 h |
| Nylon (PA) | 70–90 °C | 12–16 h |
| Polycarbonate (PC) | 80 °C | 6–8 h |
With PLA you can skip a dryer if you store spools in airtight bags with silica gel. With PETG, TPU and nylon, it’s practically mandatory. When choosing, check the maximum temperature (at least 70 °C for PETG or nylon), whether you can print straight from it and whether it has a humidity sensor.
- Eliminates moisture-related stringing and bubbles
- Lets you print from dry storage
- Essential for PETG, TPU and nylon
- Basic models top out at 55–60 °C
- Many hold only one spool
- Nylon and PC take many hours
4. Spare PEI build sheets
A flexible PEI sheet improves daily printing more than almost anything: parts stick when hot and release on their own, or with a gentle flex, once cool. No more glue or hairspray.
- Smooth PEI: glossy, very flat bottom surfaces; great with PLA, but PETG can bond too strongly and tear the coating unless you use a release agent such as glue stick.
- Textured PEI: a grainy finish that hides imperfections, more forgiving with PETG and usually longer-lasting.
Check your bed size (for example 235 × 235 mm or 256 × 256 mm) and that your printer has a magnetic base. Clean with isopropyl alcohol and avoid touching it, since skin oils ruin adhesion.
5. Hardened nozzles
Only needed for abrasive filaments. Standard brass nozzles wear quickly with carbon fiber, glass fiber or metal fill. Hardened steel is required for PLA-CF/GF, PET-CF/GF, PA-CF/GF, ABS-GF and metal-filled PLA; glow-in-the-dark PLA is also mildly abrasive on long prints. Hardened steel conducts heat less well than brass, so you may need a few degrees more, and always buy the model that fits your hotend.
6. Enclosure
Close to essential only if you print ABS, ASA, PC or nylon. It keeps warm air around the part, reduces warping and layer cracking and blocks drafts. It also lowers noise and, with an activated carbon filter, helps contain ABS/ASA emissions. If you have an open printer and only print PLA, you don’t need one; fully closing it can even overheat PLA. Foldable fire-resistant tents are cheap and easy; rigid acrylic boxes insulate better. Leave room for full bed travel.
7. Camera for print monitoring
Optional but very handy for long prints: check from your phone whether a part has detached or turned into “spaghetti” and stop the printer before wasting more filament. Many recent printers include one. Otherwise, use your brand’s official camera or a USB webcam with a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint or Klipper (Mainsail or Fluidd).
8. Resin wash and cure station
The most useful accessory for a resin printer. Parts come out covered in liquid resin, so they need washing in isopropyl alcohol and curing under UV light. A station combines both: a tank with an agitator for washing and a rotating UV turntable for curing. It saves time, reduces contact with resin and cures more evenly. Make sure the wash tank fits your build plate and the lid blocks UV light, and don’t over-cure, which makes parts brittle.
9. Gloves and PPE for resin
With resin, protective equipment isn’t optional. Uncured resin can irritate skin and cause sensitization, an allergy that can become permanent.
- Nitrile gloves (not latex or vinyl), at least 0.1 mm thick; change them every session.
- Safety glasses with side protection, or splash goggles when filling the vat.
- Real ventilation: an exhaust fan venting outside or an enclosure with an activated carbon filter. A cracked window isn’t enough in small rooms.
- A respirator with organic vapor cartridges for small rooms or long sessions; N95/FFP2 masks don’t stop vapors.
- An apron or old clothes, paper towels and a silicone mat for your work area.
Never pour liquid resin or used alcohol down the drain. Leave them in a container in sunlight or under a UV lamp until the resin solidifies, then dispose of the residue according to local hazardous-waste rules.
What to buy for your situation
- New to FDM with PLA: tool kit and calipers; store filament in airtight bags with silica.
- Printing PETG, TPU or nylon: add a filament dryer and a textured PEI sheet.
- Carbon or glass-fiber parts: a hardened nozzle for your hotend plus a dryer (these filaments are usually nylon or PETG based).
- ABS or ASA: an enclosure, ideally filtered, and a ventilated room.
- Long prints: a camera to monitor remotely.
- Resin: gloves, glasses and ventilation first, then a wash and cure station.
3D printer accessories FAQ
For an FDM printer, a tool kit (scraper, flush cutters and nozzle needles) and digital calipers. Store PLA in airtight bags; if you print PETG, TPU or nylon, add a filament dryer.
Not always for well-stored PLA. For PETG, TPU and especially nylon, yes: they absorb moisture and cause stringing, bubbles and brittle parts. A dryer that reaches 70 °C covers most materials.
Only for abrasive filaments with carbon fiber, glass fiber or metal fill. For regular PLA, PETG, ABS or TPU, brass is enough and conducts heat better.
Textured is more versatile, working well with PLA and PETG and hiding marks. Smooth gives a glossy, flat finish ideal for PLA, but PETG can stick too hard without a release agent.
At minimum nitrile gloves, safety glasses and good ventilation. In small rooms or long sessions, add an organic vapor respirator. Never pour resin or used alcohol down the drain.
Yes, if you run long prints or print while away. It lets you spot failures early and stop the printer from your phone.
Keep reading
- 3D Printing Materials: A Complete Guide to Filaments and Resins
- Creality K3: Price, Specs and Release Date
- Everything You Need to Know About 3D Printing
- Best Sites to Download Free STL Files in 2026
Official sources: Bambu Lab Wiki: filament and nozzle material table